Swinging Seville

Once the center of the universe, or at least the Spanish Empire.  From the 15th to the 17th centuries all commerce to the new world flowed through Seville.  It was rich and cosmopolitan.  And sitting at dinner, at an outdoor cafe surrounded by houses from that era it does not seem unlikely that a Spanish soldier, in plumed hat and with a breastplate of armor would come strolling into view.  At moments time stands still here and the past and future seem as one.  The sun setting orange in the sky and the white doves cooing around the cathedral create and impressionist canvas.

The architecture, a riotous amalgam of Moorish, Gothic and Frankish tropes is stunning.  The Alcazar built by Moorish kings and then taken over by Spanish Christians incorporates symbols and styles of both.  The Cathedral formally Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede is considered one of the largest cathedrals in the world.  It certainly seems to merit that description.  Started in the 15th Century is was built over a mosque and the minaret of the mosque remains as part of the church.

The old city and the Triana section where we are staying are similar to the way they were centuries ago.  Triana has become an artsy, trendy section with cafes practically wall to wall.  At all hours they are filled with locals and tourists.  This is mainly a residential area and every morning we see loads of people heading off to work, stopping for a quick coffee on their way to the bus or riding their bicycles.  There are a lot of bike lanes throughout the city.  Triana is across the river from the main old city that contains the Alcazar, the Cathedral and many of the old administrative buildings of the old Spanish Empire.  There’s also a bull ring but no fights scheduled while we’re here.