Monday, December 5, 2011

Back in Kansas - Jim

Tokyo Condom Store


Dorothy was right when she said there’s no place like home.  We’re back and it feels good.  But it seems to me that the world has changed a bit since Dorothy’s time and one could make a case that everyplace is like home.  You can get along in English and there are Starbucks and McDonald’s everywhere. 
From one perspective, that makes travel a bit easier and familiar.  From another, it can be misleading.   Many places in the world remain more than a little different however much they may superficially seem the same.
One of the biggest surprises of this trip for me has been the egocentric introspection it has generated.  The recurring question is about how all these new places impact on me.  That’s partly because I’m self-centered, I suppose, but also reflects my emphasis on the present over the past.  It is fairly easy to be overwhelmed by the Taj Mahal.  It is very difficult to figure out what’s happening in India today after a visit of several weeks.
That said, I think travel is good and I encourage anyone reading this to do as much as they can as soon as they can, preferably before even more of the cultural differences are erased.  It’s fun, if sometimes challenging.  The people are usually friendly and there are a lot of beautiful and interesting things out there to see.




Around the World-Finally

Waiting to take the A Train from JFK to Manhattan


It was exhilarating, exhausting, educational, entertaining and now it’s over.  When I sighted the tip of Long Island under the wing of our Turkish Air flight I had very conflicted feelings.  Melancholy that the journey was at and end and happiness at being home, back with family and friends and ready to start whatever the next adventure may be. 

Sometimes I feel as if I walked around the world.  I went through two pairs of shoes that I abandoned along the way.  Trains, high speed and slow, planes, cars, trams, streetcars, subway metro systems, boats, we did them all.

Being together 24/7 in the close quarters and sometimes stressful situations we had is a test of any relationship and I am grateful to Jim, my best friend and love for being a champ.  Through floods and sickness and less than perfect travel plans and accommodations we were able to keep going in the most optimal way possible at the time. After forty years together it’s nice to know that we made the right decision about each other those many years ago when we were both so young and at least in my case so foolish.


Sunday, December 4, 2011

Blog Blocked in Turkey



Blog Blocked in Turkey

Some of you may have noticed that there was a period when we were in Turkey when we were not posting any items.  That’s because the blog was blocked.  If I tried to access the blog I got a big red sign that said “Access Denied” and then went on to explain that the government had asked servers to block certain sites and so they did.  It was a bit shocking as I couldn’t think of anything I had posted that would be offensive, but there you are.

The main thing it precipitated was my thinking quite about our freedoms in the USA including the freedom of speech, which as a journalist is one of the more important ones to me.  And also how when we’re in a foreign culture, even one that seems to have so much in common with us, there are very different rules and expectations.  It never occurred to me that anything I wrote would be censored and it was a strange feeling.  As a journalist I was sometimes involved in stories that the government didn’t want told, but it was unthinkable that we would be cut off.

And then I started to have paranoid fantasies in Turkey, such as would someone knock on the door and confiscate my computer.   Had I inadvertently broken some law and be subject to arrest.  Of course, none of that happened and we went on our way.  

Kindle Update



In fairness I must report what happened when I was finally able to reach Amazon about my broken Kindle.   Even after confessing that we had dropped it, they said it was still under warranty so they are shipping me a new one at no cost.  Amazing!

Friday, December 2, 2011

My Inner Magellan





Circumnavigating the globe!  Something I’ve wanted to do since I was very young and finally got to do.  It’s not like being on the far side of the world and then returning although in air miles it looks like the same thing.  Traveling west until you meet the east is an existential experience.  Seeing various, disparate cultures unfold in a geographic progression is not like flying to a destination and then returning.  It places the world in a different context as you see one culture meld into another.  At each border you can see similarities to the land you just left behind, but subtle changes like an international game of telephone, where the original message is totally different by the end of the journey.

I’ve seen much of the common humanity that binds all people together, moral codes, ideas of human and civil rights.  And those places where those things have broken down.  Being in Cambodia, co-incidentally when the instigators of the killing fields were on trial for human rights abuses was eye opening.    There you have a country trying to regroup after losing virtually its entire educated class, teachers, doctors, lawyers, engineers, artists, musicians, the people who hold a society together.  There is still a palpable sadness there even as people try to prepare optimistically for the future.  And it is a reminder that not all the horrific, evil happened during the mid-twentieth century.  There’s still plenty going on to try to guard against and be vigilant about.

Traveling through Vietnam and feeling the sense of reconciliation there with America after all the horrific things that happened was heartening and gave me confidence that other intractable enmities can be resolved someday.

American is not the center of the world.  I was somewhat surprised at how little attention was paid to the US.  Twenty years ago if you traveled local press would usually have a front page story about some American activity.  We found very little mention on the cable news or newspapers, to the extent that we could follow them if they were not in English.  Also virtually no mention of Israel or the Palestinians anywhere, even on Al-Jazeera which we watched a lot as they have an English language channel that was carried many places.

This does not mean that American culture isn’t prevalent.  It’s everywhere.  GAP stores and McDonald’s are everywhere.  American television shows are everywhere.  You haven’t lived until you’ve seen Desperate Housewives in Hindi or the Ellen DeGeneres Show and Martha Stewart in Turkish.  In Asia we saw a lot of the Fox Crime Channel which does 24/7 CSI and Law and Order and other American crime shows in English.  I wonder what picture of America people in those countries really have of us.

Just some random thoughts sitting in the Istanbul airport waiting for the plane to JFK.

Thursday, December 1, 2011

The Kindle Saga


I love my Kindle and carefully downloaded it for our extensive trip.  I downloaded guidebooks for the major places we were going and over fifty book including current fiction, a lot of classics like Moby Dick and Dickens and my favorites Herodotus and Shakespeare.  Then the Kindle dropped about halfway through the trip and wouldn’t work.   We were moving too quickly to order a new one and hope it would catch up with us so Plan A was abandoned.  Fortunately I was able to download a lot of the material into my iPod, but the screen is a lot smaller and the battery life not as long so it wasn’t ideal but it got us through.  Maybe next time I’ll take a back up Kindle. Meanwhile, I’ve bought a few books, remember those, paper with printing on it, and been reading the old fashioned way.  Live and learn.